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The princess cut is a square shaped diamond created in the 1960’s by A. Nagy of London, but was popularized in the 1980’s by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. It is often considered the most popular fancy shape to purchase.

The price‐per‐carat of a square princess cut diamond is usually slightly cheaper than that of round brilliant cut diamond because it retains about 80% of the rough, as opposed to the round, which retains only about 50% of the rough. A greater yield means a lower price! The ability to retain more crystal weight makes the princess shape most popular amongst diamond cutters.

Why choose a princess cut?

When looking at a princess cut face up, the crown surface area appears to look bigger than that of a round diamond. This is because the corner to corner measurement of a princess cut is 15% greater than the diameter of a round brilliant of the same weight. In reality though, the crown surface area of a princess cut is about 10% smaller than a round brilliant of the same weight.

The princess cut (along with the radiant cut) comes the closet to achieving the fire and brilliance of a round diamond. It is typically square in shape, with a length to width ratio of 1.05 or less. Of all of the square cuts, the princess is the only one that has corners. Because of this design, a princess cut diamond is much more susceptible to damage, so it must always be set with prongs that protect its four corners from chipping.

When choosing a princess cut, the rule of thumb is to avoid those with a table % that is greater than the depth %.

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